Sunday, December 16, 2012


Most of the past few months have been a bit stale for me since South Africa. About 4 weeks ago, work suddenly ceased for me out of nowhere. The winter weather combined with the holidays tends to put a pause on construction work in the mountain towns. But rather than complain I've decided to embrace it. I've used this free time to train for my winter project and hopefully send the Martini Right in Hueco Tanks. I've been mostly training at Push Fitness in South Lake Tahoe where I've also been working as a route setter. It's nice to finally have a place to train in my local area. All of this training paid off when I sent a cool new problem in the Mountain Beavers the other day. The problem was known mostly as the River Project. This is one of the best problems I've done in a while. I named this new problem Solilasit. It was the sit start to Noah Kaufman's Soliloquy. The sit start add 4 tricky moves into the stand. I'm sure everyone wants to know what I graded this mega line that took me days to complete. For the sake of the game you have to grade shit something. For me the first 4 moves and the last move were the cruxes. The beginning moves fit me like a glove and they are still hard for me yet balancy and not steep. The bottom feels hard at first and then becomes easier to repeat with time and memorization. After the learning curve it felt like it was all about nutting up for the committing dyno at the end when you are pumped and crimped out. .Hard to make a call on the number, but I guess v9. All bullshit aside, what we are talking about here is a problem that is a diamond in the rough. The number is not important, it swings itself 4 grades to either side depending on if you ask Dick or Jane.  I don't how many stars it is but probably a lot. This problem sits in the river low in the lower Mountain Beavers. From Guardian of the Myth follow the trail downhill for about 50 yards to get to Soliloquy and Solilasit. There is also a new project opened starting left hand in the weakness and right hand on a crimp that will be a tall man's direct version of Soliloquy, likely reachy. If you can take the cold, go check em out.

Solilasit from Jesse Bonin on Vimeo.